What finish do you need on the thread? Galv, zinc, black, stainless?

Try blackwoods or galvins for a start. Theres other suppliers that'll do that size too, but dont remember names of the top of my head. If it needs to thread into something specific, you need to check if you have a M20 thread or a 3/4"  (20mm vs 19.05mm nominal, though its better to measure thread counts too).

 ill try galvins once i get the lower nut off. grinder disc shattered on me and i cant find a new one in the shed, out comes the hacksaw.. once i get it off ill just take it in with me... probably stainless would be my best bet i guess.. ill get a pic up when i get it out see what everyone rekns. cheers for the quick response mate :D

blackwoods should have it. LT venables possibly too.

its just a strut from the trailer chassis to the runner, that the side of the boat sits on, it looks like its a homemade job (the trailer) pretty basic,

                ====            <- skid

                     |             < bolt

                     | 

                     o           <- nut

             =======      <chassis

                     o           < nut

                     |

Taking in a thread section would be best so they can match it. Stainless wont be cheap though. If you get stainless, you want 316 not that 304 crap if you want it to last.  Actually though, try Coventrys first. Coventries are bolt suppliers, while Galvins are plumbing supplies (however, plumbers seem to use 3/4" thread, but just thinking now, it'll probably be brass). Best to ring around and see who can do what for how much (try yellowpages for bolts). You're looking for either "M20 threaded bar" or "3/4" threaded bar"

 .

Coventry fasteners or any of the fastener wholesalers.

Bullivants are another you could try, trailer is probably galv too, not many boats have stainless fittings..

Sounds like something that Martins Trailer Parts would stock. They are in Wangara and Bayswater.

Martin trailers parts x 2 :-) and they are also in occonnor

 got myself a 20 mm threaded bar, 13$ for a metre.. bit of a win!

thanks everyone !

i have a new issue now; 

the boat is floating around 8cm off the rollers. ( trailer obviously not made for this boat) ill take some pics and see what everyone rekns.

im wondering if i replace the rollers with bigger ones if available or just strap the fkr down when in transit?  bbm with pics - thanks for input

cheers

hekser

 the reason for dicking around was because the boat sat on the skids on the ripple- when i got a bloke to look at it he said thats no good and it should be in the flat- the only way i could get it into the flat was to wind it up, any ideas? :L

will it cause damage not sitting on the rollers? 

cheers,

hekser

could just wind down the skids if you felt the need to and they are adjustable, from your digagram they seem to be.

it should be on the rollers. wouldnt it be a bitch to launch/retrieve? but he is right it should be on the flat but also on the rollers.

they arent in the flat, they are on the ridge- it has a crack in the hull due to that i think...

im toying with the idea of trying to get massive rollers and fit them in and pray that they work ill measure from the centre pin to the edge of metal and see what i come up with - MAYBE i can get a bigger roller that will touch? :P

if not i think ill just have to winch my ass off to get the boat up i guess-    im thinking it need another support up the front as well, one of those V rubber things that will just hold front of keel in place.

cheers for input guys, this is a project that hopefully works out and ends up with me catching fish- i paid 3800$ for the boat understanding it needed work - im not the most mechanical minded sort but with a forum full of fishos/boatys im thinking i might be able to work it out-

cheers 

 i measured up diam from centre pin on roller to last possible point of clearance 5cm - so just under 2inches, ill grab a 2" roller tomorrow and see how that goes- *fingers crossed* 

mate, Brucesta is spot on, lower your skids, they are usually threaded rod so they are adjustible plus it sounds like you are replacing the threaded rod any way so just set them 2" lower.

Cheers Yewie 

Hekser, the boat should sitting on  the keel rollers.  They should be carrying the weight.  The skids are for stability (and should carry minimal weight).  If you hull is split around where the skids are, that is probably why.  Assuming the existing keel rollers are in reasonable condition and still roll, I would be working on lowering the skids, not replacing the rollers. 

ill have a look at work mate

Id be adjusting it down to sit on the rollers and drilling new holes in the chassis and re-position the skids. not that hard really. oh and cold gal the new and existing holes to prevent rust

you can bend the skid support rods easily enough with the skids removed so they are between

the "ripples " as you call them, I think you mean the planing strakes!

Dont beat them with a hammer! with the boat off take off the skids and use a pipe or something

they will bend easily with a bit of leverage. if you use a pipe make sure you put it in the same

position on each so you get the bends even you may even be able to do it with the skids on

with a bar between the inner edge of the trailer sides then bend to suit.

at the end of the day it dosent matter they sit on the strakes as said

before the keels rollers should be taking the wheight

also those skid support threaded bar are available from martins trailer parts if you need to cut them off

I've only just seen this Hekser United Fasteners in Welshpool have all that type of gear.

anyone want an apprentice fora day and a couple of cartons?  

Hi.

If your boat NOT sitting on it's keel on the rollers. It WILL continually crack at stress points

Get another length of threaded rod and 8 nuts 4 big washers to suit. Biggest you can for that thread..

Remove existing rods supporting skid bars. Get some decent angle iron (Galv.3x2 or 3x3in. 4 to 6 mm thick.)

Drill holes to suit dia of rods in one side of the angle..

weld the 4 new tangs (angle iron) over top of chassis rails with holes sticking out for rods to slide through

In line with where you want the rails to sit.

weld the rods to bottom of skid rails. screw up 4 of nuts (one on each rod)

lower rods\rails through holes in angle tangs\brackets to nuts\washers. 

Level\raise them up to balance NOT support weight of boat when it sitting on its keel on trlr..

Put trlr on level ground. then use a level on seat inside boat to level it.

then wind up remaining 4 nuts underneath rods to hold\lock in place.(Silicon on threads makes them pretty safe)

Once sure of position. Couple of trips....I'd weld the top nuts on so they can't move..

NOT the proper way to do a boat trlr. I've built a few.

But in your situation. the cheapest. most stable way to get out of it..

Just make sure you sitting o rollers first. otherwise you'll have continuing problems and a f----d boat...

DON'T.... drill more holes in trailer chassis rails.

all they do is weaken the trailer. the next one I weld up with folded rails at holes won't be the first..

Spend a couple extra now. It'll last you forever.

Another thing I'd do. is go to a car accesory dealer. buy a tin of that mastic paint the paint under wheel arches\chasis on cars.

and paint your whole trailer with it.

Black don't look the best. But it's salt proof. A sand down first and maybe a prime.   The trlr will last you for yors.

Regards

an old fart

Macka17

PS. We'll be back in Patong\Bankok\Chang Mai for thre weeks in Nov  Fishing for sails. and keeping missus happy

Patong is booked 5 days sail fishing.

Hey Hekser just re reading your roller measurement and I think if I'm reading it correctly you will acctualy need 4" rollers if you say you have 2" from the centre pin to the bottom of the hull ??? ie you have only measured the radius not the diameter ..

cheers fishfish.

its a break back trailer- would i be stupid to think that i could put the boat on the front lawn ? - hard to get off? harder to get on?  might be easier/smarter than dropping in river and leaving it there while i mess around with everything? 

Hi.

I drop my 5.25 Stacer Bowrider on front lawn.

Put a tyre down first. then tilt trailer and walk it away from boat. controlling speed with winch handle.

Reverse when reloading it.

A tyre under either side . will hold it level for you.

Regarding skids. If renewing them go for timber. rather than\as well as, angle. Gentler on boat bottom

And a coupla teflon sliders on top will help a million..

DON't break it's back when unloading. It'll get away from you.  And it hurts.

Unles you couple to car and use a mate to start it.

Have fun. me going to bed 1 10 am here.

Macka17

its back on the keel rollers again, one side sits on strakes, on side on the flat.  

its getting left until the weld is done then its getting dropped on the lawn and ill put 2 new skids on it.

thanks for all your insite guys- much appreciated!

cheers,

hekser 

I got some stainless 20mm booker rod, but not that long.

Cheers

Dale